![]() ![]() “It goes back to my culture,” Onwuachi says. Patience pulses through each recipe, from the curried and buttery patties (stuffed with slow-cooked goat shoulder) to the chopped cheese (a riff on a late-night bodega staple found throughout Harlem and the Bronx) made with aged ribeye. Most of the dishes on the menu at Tatiana take days to prepare. It makes sense that the flavor goes on and on. The sauce is so sticky that it clings to your fingernails all the way to the next morning, and you can’t imagine being mad about that, because it’s one of the most delicious things you will ever taste. Eventually they’re served in a pond of funky, fatty, gleaming sauce that is the result of these flavors combining, converging, cooking down. The oxtails soak in the marinade for 24 hours. Over there, Onwuachi dips a spoon into a cauldron in which vegetables and roasted chickens and hundreds of chicken feet boil and bob for hours as they’re rendered into gelatinous, deeply flavored stock. Over here, cook Jamal Lewis mixes up a Caribbean-inflected marinade-fresh bay leaves and cinnamon and allspice and a ginger-garlic paste and some of Onwuachi’s grandfather’s hot sauce. Better to go down into the basement kitchen beneath Tatiana, Onwuachi’s new Afro-Caribbean restaurant in New York City’s beloved hub of the performing arts, Lincoln Center, and see for yourself. ![]() Four days, really, but the process of preparing and cooking them has so many steps that you lose track when chef Kwame Onwuachi tries to explain it. ![]()
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